Metal roofing has become one of the fastest-growing roofing choices in the Chicago area — and for good reason. It lasts for decades, shrugs off hail and high winds, and looks fantastic on both modern and traditional homes. But one question comes up again and again during our estimates: can you put skylights in a metal roof?
The short answer is yes — absolutely. Skylights and metal roofs are actually an excellent combination. The longer answer is that installing a skylight in a metal roof is very different from installing one in an asphalt shingle roof, and getting it wrong is one of the most common causes of roof leaks we’re called out to fix.
In this guide, the team at All Roofs Inc. breaks down everything you need to know: which skylights work with which metal roof systems, how the installation actually happens, what it costs, and the mistakes that turn a beautiful upgrade into a water problem.
Why Skylights and Metal Roofs Are a Great Match
Before we get into the technical side, it’s worth understanding why so many homeowners pair these two upgrades in the first place.
Natural light where windows can’t reach. Hallways, bathrooms, stair landings, kitchens in the middle of the house — these spaces often rely on electric lighting all day. A well-placed skylight changes that completely. The U.S. Department of Energy calls this strategy daylighting, and notes that using windows and skylights to bring sunlight into your home can significantly reduce the need for artificial lighting during the day.
Energy savings. Daylighting isn’t just about looks. According to the Department of Energy’s guidance on windows, doors, and skylights, fenestration is a major component of your home’s envelope — and when it’s energy efficient, it lowers heating, cooling, and lighting costs. Modern glazed skylights with ENERGY STAR ratings are a world away from the leaky plastic bubbles of the 1980s.
A long-term pairing. A quality metal roof can last 40–70 years. A quality skylight, properly installed and properly maintained, can last 20–30 years. Because both are long-lived systems, it makes sense to plan them together — ideally at the same time as your metal roof installation, so the flashing is integrated from day one.
Ventilation and moisture control. Venting (operable) skylights let warm, humid air escape from kitchens and bathrooms — a real benefit in tightly sealed modern homes, and one more tool against the attic condensation problems we see every winter in Chicagoland roofs.
If you’re still weighing your roofing material options, our comparison of metal roofs vs. shingles is a good place to start.
First Things First: What Kind of Metal Roof Do You Have?
Not all metal roofs are the same, and the type of panel on your home determines which skylight systems will work. The three most common residential metal roofing systems are:
1. Standing Seam Metal Roofs
Standing seam is the premium choice — long, flat panels with raised vertical seams that lock together. The panels are attached with hidden clips that let the metal “float” as it expands and contracts with temperature changes.
That thermal movement is the key detail. Metal panels can shift noticeably along their length between a January deep freeze and a July heat wave. Any skylight installed in a standing seam roof must allow the panels to move independently of the skylight, which is why these roofs almost always call for a curb-mounted skylight with a metal-specific flashing kit rather than a standard deck-mount unit designed for shingles.
2. Corrugated and Ribbed (Exposed Fastener) Metal Roofs
Corrugated and ribbed panels are more affordable and common on homes, garages, barns, and workshops. The wavy or ribbed profile makes flashing trickier — a flat flashing kit can’t seal against a wavy surface — so installations here rely on raised curbs, profile-matched closures, and high-quality butyl sealants to bridge the ribs.
3. Metal Shingles and Stone-Coated Steel
Metal shingles mimic the look of traditional shingles, slate, or shake. Because they install in smaller interlocking pieces, they’re generally the most forgiving system for skylight integration, and deck-mounted skylights with step-style flashing often work well here.
Not sure which system fits your home best? Our guide to customization options for metal roofing systems walks through the profiles, finishes, and colors available today.
Types of Skylights That Work on Metal Roofs
Once you know your roof type, you can choose the right skylight. Here are the main options:
| Skylight Type | Best For | Key Advantage |
|---|---|---|
| Curb-mounted | Standing seam, corrugated, low-slope roofs | Raised frame simplifies watertight flashing; the go-to choice for metal |
| Deck-mounted | Metal shingles, steeper pitches | Lower profile, sleeker look — requires a profile-specific flashing kit |
| Flush/low-profile | Standing seam (architect-driven designs) | Sits nearly level with the roof plane for a minimal aesthetic |
| Tubular (sun tunnels) | Hallways, closets, bathrooms | Small roof penetration, budget-friendly, easy to flash |
| Venting/operable | Kitchens, baths, bedrooms | Opens for fresh air and moisture control |
| Fixed | Living areas, stairwells | Fewer moving parts, lower cost, maximum light |
Curb-Mounted Skylights: The Metal Roof Standard
For most metal roofs — and virtually all standing seam systems — the curb-mounted skylight is the right answer. The skylight sits on a raised frame (the “curb”) built above the roof plane, typically at least 4 inches high, and industry guidance recommends going taller — 6 to 8 inches — in regions with heavy snow loads. That matters in Chicago, where snow can sit on a roof for weeks and ice dams are a yearly reality.
The curb does three jobs:
- Elevates the glass above flowing water, snow, and ice so the unit is never sitting in a puddle.
- Simplifies flashing — it’s far easier to waterproof a vertical curb wall than to seal glass directly against ribbed or seamed panels.
- Isolates the skylight from the thermal movement of the metal panels, so expansion and contraction don’t stress the seals.
What About the Skylights Already in Your Roof?
If you’re planning a roof replacement and switching from shingles to metal, existing skylights usually need to be re-flashed with metal-specific kits — and if they’re more than 15–20 years old, this is the ideal moment to replace the units themselves. Reusing a tired skylight on a brand-new 50-year metal roof is a false economy: you’ll be cutting into that roof again in a few years.
How a Skylight Is Installed in a Metal Roof (Step by Step)
Every roof is different, but a professional installation on a metal roof follows the same core logic. Here’s what our crews do:
1. Structural layout and framing. We locate the skylight between rafters (or trusses) and, on standing seam roofs, position the opening to land cleanly between the vertical seams whenever possible — this dramatically simplifies the flashing. Headers are framed to carry the roof load around the opening.
2. Building and mounting the curb. A square, level curb is fastened to the structural framing — not just the decking. On metal roofs, the curb must be isolated from the panels themselves so the metal can expand and contract freely.
3. Waterproofing the curb. The curb is wrapped in a continuous self-adhering membrane — typically a high-temperature butyl underlayment — creating a secondary water barrier before any metal flashing goes on. This redundancy is what separates a 30-year installation from a 3-year one.
4. Installing the flashing system. This is the make-or-break stage. Metal roof skylight flashing is a system, not a bead of caulk:
- A back pan (water diverter or “cricket”) above the skylight splits water and snowmelt around the curb instead of letting it dam up behind it.
- Side flashings channel water along the curb and must extend over the nearest rib or seam to preserve the roof’s designed drainage path.
- A front apron laps over the downslope panels so water exits cleanly.
- On standing seam roofs, non-penetrating seam clamps secure components to the ribs without drilling holes in the flat pan of the panel — one of the biggest advantages of the system.
5. Setting and sealing the skylight. The skylight unit is fastened to the curb with its factory gasket compressed, and all metal-to-metal joints get butyl tape or high-grade polyurethane/silicone sealant that’s compatible with the panel coating.
6. Water testing and interior finishing. Before the crew leaves the roof, the installation is water-tested. Inside, the light shaft is framed, insulated, and drywalled so the finished skylight looks like it was always part of the house.
This is genuinely not a DIY project. Between fall protection, panel handling, thermal movement details, and flashing sequence, a metal roof skylight is one of those jobs where professional installation pays for itself many times over — and keeps your roof warranty intact.
The Challenges (and How Pros Solve Them)
Honest answer: skylights are the single most demanding penetration on a metal roof. Here’s what makes them tricky and how experienced installers handle it.
Thermal Expansion and Contraction
Metal roof surfaces in Chicago swing from below −20°F in winter to well over 150°F under summer sun. The panels physically move. A rigidly fastened skylight fights that movement and loses — sealants crack, fasteners loosen, and leaks follow. The solution: floating panel attachment, seam clamps, isolated curbs, and flexible sealants engineered for movement.
Flashing Against Ribs and Seams
Water on a metal roof travels fast and follows the channels between seams. Any skylight interrupts that flow, so the flashing must redirect water without damming it. Purpose-built curb flashing systems with integrated diverters exist precisely for this reason — generic shingle-style flashing kits are functionally incompatible with metal panels.
Condensation
Warm indoor air meeting a cold glass surface produces condensation, which homeowners sometimes mistake for a leak. The fix is a combination of insulated (double- or triple-pane) glazing, thermally broken frames, proper shaft insulation, and interior humidity control. If you’re seeing moisture around a skylight and aren’t sure whether it’s condensation or a leak, our article on how to tell if your roof is leaking can help you narrow it down — or we can inspect it for you.
Snow and Ice
A curb on a snowy roof can act like a dam. That’s why curb height, a properly sized cricket above the skylight, adequate roof slope, and good attic ventilation all matter. Poor detailing here is a recipe for the same ice dam damage we see on shingle roofs every February.
Energy Efficiency: Choosing the Right Glazing
A skylight is a hole in your thermal envelope, so glazing quality matters more than on a vertical window. When comparing units, look at:
- The ENERGY STAR label. ENERGY STAR certified skylights meet strict efficiency criteria for your climate zone.
- U-factor. Measures how much heat escapes through the unit — lower is better, especially for Chicago winters. Ratings come from the independent National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC).
- Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC). Controls how much solar heat comes through the glass. VELUX’s guide to skylights and energy efficiency explains how orientation changes the equation: north-facing skylights give steady, cool light, south-facing units maximize winter solar gain, and west-facing units can overheat rooms on summer afternoons.
- Laminated or tempered glass. Essential for hail resistance — a natural companion to a hail-rated metal roof. (Metal roofing itself is one of the most impact-resistant materials available, as we cover in our metal roofing benefits guide.)
Pairing a cool-coated metal roof with efficient glazing is one of the most effective envelope upgrades a home can get — and both may qualify for energy-efficiency incentives, so it’s worth asking about current federal and Illinois programs when you plan the project.
What Does It Cost to Add a Skylight to a Metal Roof?
Pricing depends on the skylight type, glazing, roof profile, pitch, and interior finishing, but here’s a realistic framework for the Chicago market:
- Tubular skylights (sun tunnels): the most affordable entry point — small penetration, simple flashing, minimal interior work.
- Fixed curb-mounted skylights: the mid-range workhorse for metal roofs; expect the metal-specific flashing system and curb work to add a premium over a comparable shingle-roof installation.
- Venting, electric, or solar-powered units: higher material cost, plus wiring where applicable.
- Large or custom flush-glazed units on standing seam: the top of the range, usually part of an architect-driven design.
Two cost-saving truths:
- Installing skylights during a metal re-roof is significantly cheaper than cutting into a finished metal roof later. If a metal roof is in your future, plan the skylights now — our article on the 15 things to know before replacing your roof with metal covers the other big decisions.
- A cheap installation is the most expensive kind. The cost of repairing water damage, insulation, and drywall from a failed skylight flashing routinely exceeds the price of doing it right the first time. If storm damage is involved, our public adjuster assistance can also help you navigate the insurance side.
The Most Common Skylight Mistakes We See on Metal Roofs
After 30+ years and more than 20,000 roofs across Chicagoland, these are the failures we’re called to fix most often:
- Shingle-style deck-mount kits forced onto metal panels. They can’t seal against ribs or accommodate movement. Leaks are a matter of time.
- Caulk used as a flashing substitute. Sealant is a component of the system, never the system itself. Sun and thermal cycling destroy exposed caulk in a few seasons.
- Curbs that are too short. A 2-inch curb disappears under a February snowpack. Four inches is the minimum; more is better in our climate.
- No back pan or diverter above the skylight. Water and slush dam up behind the curb and find their way in.
- Screws through the flat of the panel. Every unnecessary penetration is a future leak. Seam clamps exist for a reason.
- Ignoring the interior side. An uninsulated light shaft causes condensation, frost, and staining even when the roof itself is watertight.
If any of this sounds like your roof, don’t wait — small leaks become big problems fast. Our roof repair team handles skylight re-flashing on all metal roof types, and our 24/7 emergency roofing crews are available when water is actively coming in.
Keeping Your Metal Roof Skylight Leak-Free for Decades
The good news: once installed correctly, a skylight in a metal roof needs very little attention. A simple routine goes a long way:
- Inspect twice a year (spring and fall) — check sealant joints, flashing laps, and the glass gasket.
- Keep debris clear. Leaves and needles trapped behind the curb hold moisture against the flashing. Clean gutters help the whole roof drain the way it was designed to.
- Watch for condensation patterns in winter and address attic humidity or ventilation if it appears.
- After major hail or wind events, have the roof and skylights inspected — even impact-rated glass and panels should be checked after a serious storm, and storm damage is often covered by insurance.
For a full checklist, see our dedicated guide: How to maintain a skylight.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you put a skylight in an existing metal roof, or only during installation? Both are possible. Retrofitting into an existing metal roof is more labor-intensive — panels around the opening are carefully removed or cut, the curb and flashing are integrated, and panels are reinstalled — but an experienced metal roofing contractor does this routinely. Installing during a new metal roof project is simpler and cheaper.
Do skylights make a metal roof more likely to leak? Not when properly installed. The flashing systems engineered for metal roofs — raised curbs, diverters, seam clamps, butyl membranes — are extremely reliable. Nearly every “leaking skylight” we repair traces back to improper installation or the wrong flashing kit, not the skylight concept itself.
Will a skylight void my metal roof warranty? It can, if the installation isn’t performed to the manufacturer’s specifications. This is a major reason to use a licensed, experienced contractor rather than a handyman — and to have the same company handle both the roof and the skylight whenever possible.
Are skylights noisy on a metal roof when it rains? The skylight glass itself performs like any modern insulated window. A properly installed metal roof over solid decking and underlayment is also much quieter than people expect — the “rain on a tin barn” sound comes from open-framed structures, not modern residential systems.
What’s the best skylight for a standing seam metal roof? In most cases, a curb-mounted, ENERGY STAR rated unit with laminated insulated glazing, installed with a standing-seam-specific flashing kit and seam clamps. Flush-glazed systems are available for design-driven projects.
Ready to Brighten Your Home? Talk to Chicago’s Metal Roofing Experts
So — can you put skylights in a metal roof? Yes, and when the details are done right, it’s one of the best upgrades you can make: decades of natural light sitting on top of a roof built to last half a century.
All Roofs Inc. has been installing and repairing roofs across the Chicago area since 1994. We’re family-owned, fully licensed and bonded, BBB A+ rated, and our crews handle metal roofing, skylights and windows, flashing repairs, and everything in between. Browse our project gallery, check our FAQ, or explore more guides on our blog.
Get a free on-site estimate: contact us online or call (866) 205-8833 — available 24/7 for emergencies
